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The Night of the Radishes in Oaxaca

Nativity scenes carved from giant radishes, posadas and lantern processions.

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The Night of the Radishes in Oaxaca
Illustration made with AI from photos on Wikimedia Commons: Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán, nan palmero, CC BY 2.0 · Zócalo, nsaum75, CC BY-SA 3.0 · Basilica de la Soledad, AlejandroLinaresGarcia, CC BY-SA 3.0

Oaxaca has one of the most distinctive Christmases in Latin America. On 23 December the Zócalo fills with figures carved from giant radishes, from nativity scenes to whole villages, and the Noche de Rábanos has been a competition since 1897. From 16 December come the posadas, nine evenings of processions recalling Joseph and Mary's search for shelter. On Christmas Eve the lantern processions, the calendas, go from the churches to the cathedral. The walk goes from church to church through the colonial town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with a stop at the food market.

The stops

  1. 1

    Templo de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe

    Families bring their children here in traditional dress on the feast of Guadalupe, 12 December.

  2. 2

    Santo Domingo

    The city's grandest baroque church, with a gilded interior.

    Santo Domingo
  3. 3

    Calle Macedonio Alcalá

    The pedestrian street through the centre, with crafts and Christmas food in December.

  4. 4

    Zócalo

    The radish figures are displayed here on 23 December, and the lantern processions arrive here on Christmas Eve. The cathedral is on the north side.

  5. 5

    November 20th Market

    The food market with its grill aisle and Oaxacan dishes.

  6. 6

    Basilica de la Soledad

    The shrine of the city's patron saint, the Virgin of Solitude, whose feast day is 18 December.

    Basilica de la Soledad
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About the trip

Where
Oaxaca
Getting around
On foot
Time
2 h 35 min
Distance
3 km
Stops
6
Season
December–January
Themes
History, Food, Art

Practical

Start
Templo de Guadalupe by El Llano park. City buses and taxis, no rail.
Finish
Basílica de la Soledad, 1 km west of the Zócalo.
Toilets
In the markets (small fee) and in cafés.
Accessibility
Macedonio Alcalá is pedestrianised; elsewhere the pavements are uneven with high kerbs. The city lies about 1,550 metres above sea level. On 23 December there is a long queue for the exhibition.

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